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PORTFOLIO / gallery Portfolio: Adam Ondra and his Biographie flash attempt at Ceuse
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12.06.2012 di

"In the meantime, even if we know its 9a+, we're accepting bets for the first on-sight of Realization..." This is what we wrote in June 2009 , exactly three years ago, when one thing became clear: that sport climbing with its stellar numbers had lost a clear direction. What was needed wasn't the innumerable repeat of a 9a slashplus, but a true new challenge, such as a new grade hitherto unthought of which comes about after months and months of attempts. Or a flash or an on-sight which has no precedents. Well, the impossible was attempted by the usual Adam Ondra who after having freed Jungle Boogie failed to resist the lure of one of the most famous sport climbs in the world, legendary Biographie (also known as Realization) high up at Ceuse. Until last Friday Ondra had always managed to avoid the route, keeping it for the right moment, not for a fast repeat but to give this “King Line” a new, extraordinary chapter. 9a hasn't been on-sighted yet and so Ondra, intelligently, decided to take things one step at a time and attempt this 9a+ flash... The moment was magical, so much so that even before he set off the news had spread like wildfire across the world wide web. Unfortunately though Ondra failed, he fell off high on the route, from the crux section after the chain at half-height where Authentic Cheap Online Sonia Rykiel Glitter Platform Sandals Amazon Footaction High Quality Excellent Cheap Online VjOwCx0lKC
– fell who knows how many times. But the fact that Ondra first dreamt this, then dared to attempt it proves once again how determined the 18-year-old Czech climber is to explore his limits... Which are, one has to admit, also the absolute current limits of sport climbing.
ADAM ONDRA AND BIOGRAPHIE It had been my long term, crazy dream to try this route flash, but I kept postponing the idea as I wasn't sure I was capable of doing it. The motivating impulse came this spring when I tried to repeat the 9a+ Versace PointedToe Loafer Pumps All Seasons Available Free Shipping Newest Clearance Sale Online Sale Pre Order U6QkVDt
at Oliana in Spain, three years after my ascent. It was the end of the day and I didn't remember much of the beta, nonetheless I did it with a couple of falls and I felt as if, had I known the perfect beta, it would have been possible to flash. It was then that I decided to try and flash Biographie this year. I had that route constantly in my mind while learning for the final exams in May. I had planned to train really hard for it but I discovered that after learning 8 hours a day, I wasn't able to train as hard as usual. After I successfully completed my final exams I was exhausted and in quite bad shape. During a two-week climbing trip my shape started to return, so much so that I did some good ticks including Deltaplane Man Direct 8c+ on-sight at Entraygues. My motivation was high, self confidence in my climbing has increased. Sadly though I don't think I was in sufficient shape to perform such a feat as flashing Biographie... I postponed the try to my second last day of the trip. Unfortunately there wasn't anyone trying the route, so I learned the video by heart and guided Inka, my girlfriend who rappelled down the route, to clean all the holds and footholds. On my flash attempt I managed to fight my way through the first part (the former 8c+) and fell off the famous crux move, where you stick the narrow pocket. But I was far from being close, I was way too pumped to stick the move. Even more frustrating was that I didn't send the route on my second go, and neither on my third. And then we had to return home, so I had to leave business frustratingly unfinished. Adam Ondra Adam Ondra Tentative Flash Biographie à Céüse TOPO: Ceuse, France

In a review published in 1975, Hahn and Novak ( 28 ) point out that although BAT has 10 times the activity of PEPCK-C as compared with WAT (based on cellular protein content) the rate of glyceroneogenesis, as measured by the rate of incorporation of labeled pyruvate into triglyceride, is 4 times greater in WAT than in BAT. They proposed that the “extra” PEPCK-C activity is involved in a futile cycle in which the enzyme uses the GTP generated in the citric acid cycle by succinyl-CoA synthase to form phosphoenolpyruvate from oxalacetate, which is then converted to pyruvate via pyruvate kinase. Further, the pyruvate is carboxylated to oxalacetate or decarboxylated to acetyl-CoA to replenish the citric acid cycle. The forward progress of the citric acid cycle will generate malate that leaves the mitochondria to maintain the supply of cytosolic oxalacetate for PEPCK-C. The net result is a futile cycle in which one molecule of GTP is used by PEPCK-C and one molecule of ATP by pyruvate carboxylase, with only one molecule of ATP being generated by pyruvate kinase. This proposed futile cycle could aid in the generation of heat by the BAT. The ablation of expression of the gene for PEPCK-C in BAT should result in a lower rate of futile cycling of pyruvate as well as a decrease of triglyceride fatty acid cycling leading to a decrease of triglyceride in the tissue. This was confirmed in the mouse model in which the PPARγ binding site in the PEPCK-C gene promoter was mutated, thereby ablating expression of the gene in WAT and BAT (but in no other tissue); the mice had a marked loss of triglyceride from both tissues ( 20 ). Thus, glyceroneogenesis in BAT is quantitatively important for maintaining the appropriate level of triglycerides in the cell. Because fatty acid re-esterification is itself a futile cycle (6 molecules of ATP are required to activate 3 molecules of fatty acid to 3 acyl-CoAs for triglyceride synthesis), active rates of triglyceride synthesis in BAT could add to the heat production generated by fatty acid-induced uncoupling via UCP-1.

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A central premise of WAT metabolism is that the glycerol released during lipolysis cannot be phosphorylated and used for triglyceride synthesis because this tissue has a negligible activity of glycerol kinase. Most of the glycerol released during fasting is taken up by the liver and converted to glucose, although some glycerol can be used by BAT ( 28 ) and muscle ( 34 , 35 ). Because some FFA is re-esterified back to triglyceride by WAT during fasting, the rate of glycerol release by that tissue is routinely used as a measure of lipolysis. Over the years there have been several reports of glycerol kinase activity in WAT, but the reported activity is not great enough to support the high rates of FFA re-esterification that would be required for triglyceride synthesis when glucose is limiting, such as occurs in this tissue during fasting. Recently, Guan et al. ( Tods Suede RoundToe Loafers Exclusive Clearance Huge Surprise Best Authentic Free Shipping Sale Online Outlet Release Dates VKGoSAq8J
) proposed that WAT contains sufficient glycerol kinase to play a role in triglyceride homeostasis in this tissue in the presence of thiazolidinediones. As predicted, they detected very low levels of glycerol kinase in control adipocytes but upon the addition of concentrations of 0.1 μ m (or higher) of rosiglitazone, they noted the presence of glycerol kinase activity. In addition, the injection of ciglitazone (100 mg/kg of body weight/day for 4 days) to Ob/Ob mice caused an induction of glycerol kinase in the WAT of the animals. Interestingly, non-obese mice had far less glycerol kinase induction after ciglitazone injection, and control animals had negligible levels of glycerol kinase in their adipose tissue. Adipocytes responded to the addition of rosiglitazone by greatly increasing the incorporation of isotopically labeled glycerol into glyceride-glycerol and by reducing FFA release (after 48 h of rosiglitazone treatment). We can conclude from this study that the thiazolidinediones can induce the expression of the gene for glycerol kinase in WAT and can thus stimulate FFA re-esterification in that tissue. However, the levels of glycerol kinase in WAT are negligible in basal, unstimulated conditions.

A RegExp grammar for ECMAScript is given in 15.10 . This grammar also has as its terminal symbols the characters as defined by SourceCharacter . It defines a set of productions, starting from the goal symbol Pattern , that describe how sequences of characters are translated into regular expression patterns.

Productions of the lexical and RegExp grammars are distinguished by having two colons “ :: ” as separating punctuation. The lexical and RegExp grammars share some productions.

Another grammar is used for translating Strings into numeric values. This grammar is similar to the part of the lexical grammar having to do with numeric literals and has as its terminal symbols SourceCharacter . This grammar appears in 9.3.1 .

Productions of the numeric string grammar are distinguished by having three colons “ ::: ” as punctuation.

The syntactic grammar for ECMAScript is given in clauses 11, 12, 13 and 14. This grammar has ECMAScript tokens defined by the lexical grammar as its terminal symbols ( 5.1.2 ). It defines a set of productions, starting from the goal symbol Program , that describe how sequences of tokens can form syntactically correct ECMAScript programs.

When a stream of characters is to be parsed as an ECMAScript program, it is first converted to a stream of input elements by repeated application of the lexical grammar; this stream of input elements is then parsed by a single application of the syntactic grammar. The program is syntactically in error if the tokens in the stream of input elements cannot be parsed as a single instance of the goal nonterminal Program , with no tokens left over.

Productions of the syntactic grammar are distinguished by having just one colon “ : ” as punctuation.

The syntactic grammar as presented in clauses 11, 12, 13 and 14 is actually not a complete account of which token sequences are accepted as correct ECMAScript programs. Certain additional token sequences are also accepted, namely, those that would be described by the grammar if only semicolons were added to the sequence in certain places (such as before line terminator characters). Furthermore, certain token sequences that are described by the grammar are not considered acceptable if a terminator character appears in certain “awkward” places.

The JSON grammar is used to translate a String describing a set of ECMAScript objects into actual objects. The JSON grammar is given in 15.12.1 .

The JSON grammar consists of the JSON lexical grammar and the JSON syntactic grammar. The JSON lexical grammar is used to translate character sequences into tokens and is similar to parts of the ECMAScript lexical grammar. The JSON syntactic grammar describes how sequences of tokens from the JSON lexical grammar can form syntactically correct JSON object descriptions.

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